Number 34 Ecuador 1996

Good and Quick (“The old patagonia express” Paul Theroux)

The book “The old patagonia express” by Paul Theroux first published in 1975 is one of the classics of travel literature. From his home town Boston Theroux took the train all the way down to the Patagonian Pampa – as far as that was still possible at the time. On route he also ends up in Quito, Ecuador. His idea is to take the railway from Quito down to the port of Guayaquil, the Guayaquil and Quito Railway, in short, the “G and Q” or “the Good and Quick”, “as it is known to those who have not ridden on it” (Paul Theroux).

The main street of Alausi

The only platform of the station in Alausi

The G and Q is part of the dilapidated Ferrocarriles de Ecuador. The main line connects Quito not only to Guayaquil with a branch from Sibambe in the direction of Cuenca in the South, but also to Ibarra to the other ecuadorian pacific port of San Lorenzo in the North. The northern part was only finished in 1957. In 1996 there was still a train running from Guayaquil to Riobamba, there were frequent Autoferros between Ibarra and the market town of Otavalo and the odd train from Ibarra to San Lorenzo.

The North bound G & Q arrives in Alausi

Nine of these engines were delivered in 1992 to replace Theroux's railcar and the steam engines

 

The connection from Guayaquil to Quito took 36 years to build. The first section was opened in 1873, but it took until 1908 for the first train to arrive in Quito. The total length of the railway is 965 km, of which 446 km are in the Southern Division (Division Sur) which starts at sea level at the harbour of Guayaquil with a ferry to Duran and then heads east into the Andean mountains. To reach Quito at an altitude of 2850 meters the line first has to reach its highest point at Urbina at an altitude of 3,609 metres. Some tricks were necessary to achieve that difference in altitude. The best known is the Devil's Nose (Nariz del Diablo) where the train shunts back and forth along a rocky promontory between the stations of Sibambe at 1800 m and Alausi.at 2346 m.

Unloading in Alausi station

In 1996 even the serviceable parts of the railway were in a deplorable state due to general neglect. In 1992, the railway had received a last delivery of 9 Alstom AD24 BBB diesel engines with the numbers 2401-9. This made an end to the service of the last, antiquated steam engines and autoferros, buses adapted to railway use, but did not improve the reliability. During the El Niño In 1997 and 1998 the railway was severely damaged by heavy rainfall. However, in 2008 the president Rafael Correa named the railroad a "national cultural patrimony" and announced the restoration. Indeed service was restored between Guayaquil and Quito by 2013.

It is written in all guidebooks that the ride on the train over the devil’s nose was one of the touristic highlights of a visit to Ecuador and in addition one of the few in the country which did not involve excessive physical exercise at a height of above 2000 m. So we took the bus to Alausi, a little village in the Ecuadorian highlands surrounded by steep mountain slopes. The town center is built around the station and the train uses the mostly deserted main street.

Market day in Alausi

Indios in their colorful clothes dominate the streets. Even the women wear the typical bowler hats above their long braids. Only on sunday the quiet streets of Alausi fill with the indios from the surrounding villages to buy provisions and sell their products. And then, twice everyday, there is another disturbance of the peace. A roaring sound can be heard in the distance. Only after considerable waiting the sound turns into a rumble and slowly the train arrives. Most of the few travelers, mainly tourists, sit on the top of the wagons to enjoy the ride. Local hustlers climb up to sell snacks or drinks. When the train arrives from Guayaquil, ordered goods which do not fit in a bus like building material are unloaded. A flat car carries banana trunks and fish. They are sold directly from the train. The fish has been lying on the flat car in the simmering heat of the tropical coastal plains since the departure in Duran in the early morning and has developed a considerable smell. Fortunately most of it has been sold before the train arrives in Alausi.

Why did I not buy one of the nice indian bowler hats?

Sale of the fabric for the indigenus clothes....

...and next door there is somebody to tailor it

After a long stop the train continues its journey. In 1996, the uphill terminus is Riobamba. The remainder of the line to Quito was not in use any more.

We make a reservation for the next day. When we take the train down the devil’s nose to Huigra, we can return on the uphill train the same day. It’s not really clear to me why anybody should make a reservation since most of the people sit on the roof and the proper seats are empty anyway.

Cabbage the size of a pumpkin

Another item lost in time.... tapes

Different types of Andean potato

The scarf can be used to carry a baby as well as a shopping bag

Fresh chicken for the sunday lunch

The next morning we proceed to the station. Since Alausi is a small town it is not very far and the train can be heard a long time before arrival.

The train leaves main street for Riobamba

Finally the train arrives. And most of the space on the roofs is already occupied. Even the locals have resorted to the roof. Some people also sit on the almost empty platform of the flat car. Those who are actually inside the train seem to be mostly railwaymen. There is no guardrail on the roof. After the train starts to ease down the steep mountain slopes, somebody falling down would not only end up at the base of the freight car, but probably also roll down the slope for a couple of hundred meters. Nevertheless nobody gets scared and moves to the safety inside. I guess an accident has happened some time later, because on recent pictures all the roofs have a guardrail.

The hustlers board the roof of the train for their daily business

Snacks?

The danger is increased by the swaying of the wagons due to the poor railbed. And indeed, it only takes a short while and the slow moving train comes to a complete stop. After some time we dare to climb down t have a look. The first boogie of the engine is derailed. Apparently they are used to that. This is the reason there is so much staff on the train. They cut yucca leaves and somehow manage to get the engine on the track again. To avoid further derailment, they produce some tools and readjust the rails on the spot before the train continues over it. I hope the train will not derail on one of the steep slopes. To my knowledge there never has been a very serious accident on this line before, so why should it happen today? For safety, there is a brakeman on every handbrake on the roof of the wagons.

Shoeshine?

The station sign of Alausi announces a height of 2347 m. Our destination Huigra is at 1255. To get the train up and down, it has to Zig Zag along switchbacks up the mountain slope of the Nariz del Diablo above the station of Sibambe, which is at a height of 1800 m. The train is pulled into a terminal, then pushed up or down to the next terminal, from where it continues by pulling. This is a cheap way of avoiding a spiral tunnel.

With the roofs fully loaded the train starts the descent towards the coast

The train approaches devil's nose

The hand brakes of the wagons are manned

The train is pushed up the first switchback of devil's nose

However, there are a couple of tunnels on the line between Sibambe and Huigra. It is not a problem being on the roof.as long as you sit down – nobody seems to have any worries.

Get down, the tunnel

We arrive in Huigra at lunchtime. Close to the station Indian women have set up little eateries. The stop is long enough for the people on the train to have lunch. After the train finally leaves we seem to be the only ones waiting at the station for the train back. We get the full attention of the few locals left at the station. They come together around us when we show postcards from at home. Popular are n particular a postcard of an old express steam engine with huge wheels and of a beach with topless women. When I offer an old railwayman to select one, he takes the steam engine.

Arrival of the train in Huigra

Loading of the goods bound for the coast in Huigra

Residents of Huigra looking at my postcards from Europe

When the upward bound train finally arrives, the flat car is full of fish. Not deterred by the smell the villagers come together and extensive bargaining starts. It looks like the train will wait until most of the fish is sold. On another flatcar is a bulldozer, engine running, and big junks of fire wood. After we have left Huigra, passed the Devil’s nose and reached the spot of the previous derailment, the fire wood is unloaded. It turns out that it will serve as replacement sleepers for the repair of the line.

Siesta in Huigra between the departures of the two daily trains

Different means of transport

Lunch for the travelers is ready

Dog waiting for the leftovers

Flat car selling fish from the coast to the people in the mountains

While in Ecuador, Paul Theroux meets a lot of people, local fellow writers, long lost family, expats. None of them has taken the train. It does not surprise him. In South America, trains are for the “semi-destitute, the barefoot ones, the Indians, and the half-cracked yokels”. Therefore for him riding the train is a good introduction to the social miseries and scenic splendours of the continent.

Lunch is ready for the travelers. The arrival of the train is a source of income for the locals

The fish and fruit shop on the uphill train

The fish is cooled in boxes with ice

In his time the train was a railcar. He tries to get a ticket, but it seems to be always full. He asks somebody why it is so popular. They tell him “it‘s not popular, it is small”. Eventually, after having met so many people, observed the miseries of the country, he leaves for Peru. He did not get the chance to ride the G and Q train.

The uphill train has arrived. The little draisine is used by the workmen to roll back down the hill

First class

View of the station of Sibambe from the last swithback of nariz del diablo

During the stop in Huigra the flat car which carried the fish is loaded with what we think is fire wood. Another flat-car is loaded with a caterpillar. The engine stays running also after the train finally departs. The firewood is unloaded after a while along the line. It is used as sleepers. 

After loading some firewood the train continues

The line is in a deplorable state. Suddenly the train stops. The front boogie of the engine has derailed. The many men idling in the train get off. Apparently this was the purpose why they rode the train. Now they get active and put the heavy engine onto the rails again with the help of .... yucca leaves. Afterwards the line is realigned with the help of some firewood and the train can continue.  

Repairing the rails after the engine was derailed

Those sleepers definitely need replacement

Source:

Paul Therous, The old patagonian express

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empresa_de_Ferrocarriles_Ecuatorianos

Other stories about Ecuador:

https://h-s-coronastories.blogspot.com/2020/10/number-42-ecuador-1996.html

https://h-s-coronastories.blogspot.com/2021/12/number-77-ecuador-1995.html

Look here, Paul Theroux: There is something you havn't got: Ticket of the Ferrocarriles Ecuadorianos for tourists

Number 32 Germany 2020

Manufactured landscapes

When you switch on a device in your house, do you ever think about where the electricity comes from? Maybe you have solar panels on your roof, but even then – there is no sun at night and not enough in winter. Then, it has to come from a power station, a turbine at the bottom of a dam or a wind turbine. None of which you really would like to see close to your backyard.

Overview of the Garzweiler mine

Two of the big excavators

In Germany 515.56 Twh of electricity were produced in 2019. Of these, 53.9% were from renewable sources, wind (24.6%) , solar (9%), biomass (8.6%) and hydroelectric (3,8%). 9.6% were produced from hard coal fired power plants, 19.7% use brown coal. The brown coal (lignite) is found in Germany itself. It sits in layers rather close to the ground and can be dug out from open pit mines. These mines are in the Rhenish district of North Rhine-Westphalia, the Lusatian district in Brandenburg and Saxony and the Central German district in Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt.

In this part of the mine renaturing has started

Germany has been the world’s largest lignite producer since the beginning of industrial lignite mining. It still is. When burned, it is more CO2 intensive than hard coal.

In the background the power stations where the coal is turned into electricity

The Rhenish district has three mines, Garzweiler, Hambach and Inden. In the biggest, the Garzweiler mine, layers of coal of 40 m thick are found underground in a depth of 40 to 210 m. To get to it, the surface and intermediate layers of ground have to be removed. The ratio of coal to ground is 1:4.7, so for each ton of coal almost 5 tons of ground have to be removed. After the coal layers are depleted, the ground which had been removed is replaced and the area renatured. RWE, the company which wins the coal in the Rhenish district, wins 40 million tons of coal in the Garzweiler district alone. Altogether there is a supply of 1.3 billion tons in this mine. The areas of the two parts of the Garzweiler mine are 66 and 48 km2. Just a reminder if  you slept during the chemistry lessen: 40 million tons of coal is at least 147 million tons of carbon dioxide.

the former main street of an abandoned villaage

land ready for the excavator

As the coal layers are depleted, the mine moves on. North Rhine Westphalia, where the mines are, is the most populated german state. To date, opencast lignite mining has altered 179,490 hectares of countryside in Germany. Since 1924, 313 settlements have been lost to lignite. Besides the settlements, all the infrastructure has to be constantly moved. I drove across the Garzweiler district on a motorway, which was not on my printed map of 2010. The old motorway had disappeared. Farmers loose there lands and have to be compensated by land in areas, where others already use all the farmland. A bucolic landscape of little villages and farms, old churches and little castles has disappeared. Still now, l discover dead end roads which have led to villages which were pulled down because they are in the way of the expanding mine. The land is prepared for the change. Farming has stopped and waist high weeds cover the fields between streets still lined with street lamps. An old shepherd can use the wasteland for his sheep. I cannot talk to him. He is from Romania.

The Romanian shepherd uses the abadoned fields for his sheep until the excavator comes

The coal is used in electrical power plants just outside the mining area. The energy the power plants produce is used right away by the huge excavators in the mines. The Garzweiler mine uses 7 excavators. The biggest is 100 meters high and can dig up 240.000 m3 of coal or landfill a day. In the big mine it looks like a toy. Conveyer belts bring coal and landfill to their destinations.

Excavators and the conveyer belt to transport the material 

Last year the german government has decided on what they call “Kohleausstieg”. To reduce carbon dioxide emissions, all the coal fired power plants will be shut down. The open pit mines will be closed until 2038. The area will be renatured. This will lead to an enormous lake, which will fill up with water from the Rhine by 2080.

Mayor Zilikens of the town of Jüchen. A big part of the mine is on the territorry of his town

By chance I meet the mayor of the town of Jüchen, Harald Zilikens. A third of the area of his town is part of the Garzweiler open pit mine. 20.000 people depend on employment in the mines directly or indirectly. To generate the same amount of electricity as by the coal fired power plants hundreds of windmills have to be installed. The population accepts the mines as a kind of necessary evil which creates jobs. They do not accept the windmills.

Access is strictly forbidden. The area is controlled by CCTV camera

I stay in a hotel in the little town of Hambach. Hambach has given its name to another enormous open pit mine and to a forest. Even so the government already was announcing the end of coal powered electricity generation, RWE wanted to cut down the Hambach forest to enlarge the mine. There were violent protests. The protests were successful. Eventually RWE has given up on their plans. The old landfill was used to create a hill years ago. It now is covered with a new forest, there are hiking trails and lookout towers. At the moment you look out over the still operating Hambach mine. In 2080, you will look out over the new lake.

Water is sprayed to avoid dust blowing into the surrounding towns

The Canadian photographer Edward Burtynsky had spend a lifetime to document how human kind changes the surface of the earth. His movie “manufactured landscape” is a milestone in this documentation. On his website there also is a collection of photos of open pit mines:

https://www.edwardburtynsky.com/projects/photographs/mines

Old disused conveyor belt along the mining road

A network of electrified mining railways owned by RWE are used to move coal and tailings

RWE tries to make the mines more popular